A Mid July Quiet Queens Mornings
My roommates have a sweet morning routine. They wake up with the sun, talk in quiet voices, pack the truck, and make their way down to Queens, they surf until the crowd fills in, and then go to the coffee shop — all before 8:30 am.
I don’t have the Queens itch, I also have decided that I want to wake up naturally. And naturally, I don’t wake up at 5:30. So I sleep to finish my dream. After a morning jog, I cruise down to the beach to catch the end of my roommates’ session.
The timing works out well for me, right as I start to get cold the gang is ready for coffee.
As I give my camera a water test I spot my best friend on a fun one. Alia started surfing in May. It was about time! All her friends are beyond addicted. I guess the FOMO finally caught up to her. Now, she’s the first to load her board into the back of the truck every morning.
I’ve gotten more and more into taking videos. Zack and I have fun watching ourselves back as a way of coaching; and then, putting the best clips together to make short, fun edits. I grabbed this frame from one of Zack’s waves. He steps back to the tail for a long ‘n slow cut back. I think Zack’s style perfectly represents these early mornings —playful, long, and slow.
A few fun sets are separated by chatty downtime. I see Uncle Ka’eo do one pump before running to the nose of his paddle board. I forget about my camera as I watch from the inside in awe. I try to think if it’s the first time I have ever seen someone nose ride a paddle board, just maybe. A set later I remember my camera and am sure to nail the shot.
I ask Uncle Ka’eo, what feels better: getting to the nose or throwing a huge turn, on the paddle board? “Well getting to the nose, that’s not something you see everyday.” Well said.
My favorite shot from the morning is of a new face, Tim. He was so stoked when he first saw me. That’s a nice feeling as a photographer, when a surfer approaches you with enthusiasm about their waves and the potential for photos. The more the merrier — the water session and post surf editing are more enjoyable with more people.
I shoot the right at Queens, so more often than not Diamond Head is behind me. After a few successful sets, I try to mix it up — to find something exciting, new, and different. I swim closer to the pack and further towards the peak; and, I’m rewarded with a capture of Tim looking down the line, Leahi in the distance.
I get the signal from Zack that their parking is up and it’s time for coffee. I don’t complain. I’ve been thinking about a lavender latte since I finished my last coffee, yesterday.
