A Bowls Fun Fest

Through the spray, Johnny Burns hits the lip — How many “one more wave”s do you give yourself before you finally ride the white water in? What if there’s a photographer out? — Glad Johnny stuck around for one (or two) more.

In the seventh hour on the seventh day of the seventh month I meet Dor, Shayden, and Jayden in the Bowls parking lot. A 1mm spring suit, a Sony a7iii, a water housing, and a towel stuff into my moped seat. With my moped locked and my gear in order I do a quick water check before climbing the boulders of the levee.

I trail behind humming Fortunate Fool as we walk alongside the harbor. They stop somewhere in the middle, looking out at bowls straight ahead, the perfect spot for Shayden’s videographer, Jayden to set up. Light drizzle begins to fall as Shayden gives Dor coaching and they set their focuses for the session. I stare off, mentally warming myself up for the swim.

I just came back from surfing in Portugal where the water temperature is somewhere in the 60s. I wore a 4/3 mm wet suit; and truthfully, I loved it. After breaking a sweat walking the trail to the water, then peeing myself the second I hit the ocean, that first duck dive was eagerly anticipated. Eventually, my hands and feet would get too cold to bear and I would paddle in for coffee. Somehow, someway I find the 80 degree waters here at Ala Moana more intimidating. I tell myself I’m a whimp and follow behind the guys into the ocean.

Dor turns around to warm me, “it’s shallow here.” “Gotcha,” I say. No I don’t. I toss the camera a bit ahead and jump in, booty first. My butt lands right on a rock. Nice. I swim it off, thinking about how not a day goes by that I don’t have a new scrape or bruise when I leave the water. I wonder how typical this is, and if at some point I should let it bother me. For now I keep swimming, making my way out to the lineup.

A wave machine! Endless lefts of all sizes. A few uncles sit at the top of the lineup, but for the most part it’s a day for the groms — not a wave goes un-ridden. Dor and Shayden sit just under the uncles and wait more patiently. Their patience is virtuous as they score some really fun ones. Open faces allow for lots of spray and creativity.

As the tide rises the bigger sets start to curl down the line. Shayden reads this one perfectly, snapping a bottom turn into a hollow little nugget. Lucky me, I have the best view.

As the session rolls on my mind falls whimpy. “I’m chillin’” I say when I mean “I’m chilly.” Dor paddles by, he agrees he was starting to feel cold. Then he asked himself, “This is cold? This is the easiest ice bath I’ve ever done!” He paddles off and I laugh at myself. He’s right. We sat in 32 degrees Fahrenheit for 5 minutes less than a month prior. That was cold.

I stick around long enough to catch a handful more big turns and a few fun barrels.